Yesterday I returned home from Japan after a week of adventure with my friends Devin, Brian, Tiko, and Brad. This was only my second ever overseas trip, the first being my trip to Europe with my Mom in the summer of 2001. The trip was Devin’s idea, and had been in planning for about 15 months. Not only did Devin conceive and plan this trip, but he also funded it. I’m not going to get into the details of why he funded it, but instead focus on the amazing life changing experience that we all shared together, as well as do my best to express my ultimate gratitude for having the opportunity to be part of it.
It’s hard for me to put into words how much I appreciate Devin including me on this trip. No one (other than my parents) has ever done anything even close to this for me, nor should they. Although I didn’t have a terribly hard time accepting his generosity, it was still tough to wrap my head around at times. He certainly didn’t have to include me on this trip, and our friendship wouldn’t have suffered in the slightest, but the fact that he did left me with such a huge sense of humility and gratitude. Based on this, I felt like the best thing I could do was go on this epic journey, document the hell out of it, and do my best to relay all these incredible experiences with my loved ones. It’s important to me that the people I love get the best possible sense of this experience, and walk away with some type of expanded perspective.
So before I go further, I need to take this opportunity to give Devin my ultimate gratitude. Out of the pure kindness of your heart, you’ve changed my life forever, and so much of what we experienced together on this trip will now trickle down to my wife, kids, and extended family. You’ve taught me a lot about generosity, friendship, and travel. We’ll be talking and laughing about these experiences for the rest of our lives, and I just can’t thank you enough for welcoming me in on such an incredible journey. I know you were happy to do it, but please understand that it’s necessary for me to express my gratitude the best way I can.
In addition to expressing my thankfulness to Devin, I also owe a huge thanks to my amazing wife Jessica. From day one when Devin originally invited me on this trip (which was the day of my 38th birthday), Jessica has been nothing but supportive. She simply would not have allowed me to pass this up, and I don’t take that for granted. She knew this was an opportunity of a lifetime, and has been nothing but supportive the entire time. Although I’d like to think I never take our relationship for granted, it’s things like this that remind you how well your life has turned out, and that you most definitely found your soulmate. I’m just so lucky to have family and friends like this, and I hope they all know how much I love, respect, and appreciate all of them.
Obviously I’ve got a lot to write about, so I’m going to change up the format for this post. Rather that write my post and finish it off with a bunch of recent photos, I’m going to separate this post into multiple chapters, and include photos for each chapter. I think it will make more sense this way, otherwise by the time you get to the end of the post, the pictures will be out of context. So, without further ado, let’s dive in! You might want to make yourself a cup of coffee, as we’re about to embark on a fantastic journey. Before I get into chronicling each day of the trip, I want to share some general observations I had about Japan.
General observations
The people
Overall I thought the people were amazing. They were certainly friendly, but in my opinion what overshadowed their friendliness was their sense of respect. There are some places you can travel to, France for example, where the locals are likely to be rude to you, or give you some type of sarcastic answer, simply because you are a tourist. This is not the case in Japan. Locals may not go out of their way to talk to you, mostly because English isn’t that widely spoken there, but whenever you do interact with a local you can rest assured that they will be friendly and treat you with respect.
For me personally, I always try to be polite with everyone, mainly because that’s how my Mom raised me, but in Japan I did my best to turn it up a notch. I found that when trying to communicate with someone who doesn’t speak your language, don’t ever underestimate the power of a smile and a friendly gesture. There are certain things like this that transcend all language, and when people can tell you’re trying and you’re friendly, you’ll have no problems. I ended up leaving Japan with a profound sense of respect for its people and its culture, and was quite appreciative of that same respect I received from the Japanese people.
Another thing I couldn’t help but notice about the Japanese people was the fact that hardly anyone was overweight. It had to be 1% or less, which was interesting. Over the course of the week I was there I felt like I figured out the primary reasons for why this is, and it’s not a carbohydrates thing at all. They eat white rice or noodles with almost every meal, but their meal sizes are significantly smaller than ours, they don’t eat processed foods that are injected with a bunch of sugars, they don’t eat greasy fried foods, and they don’t eat heavy foods that are weighed down with a bunch of cheese. Tiko and I were both commenting at the end of the trip that neither of us had any heartburn the entire time we were there, which was unheard of. I even brought a bottle of acid reducers with me just in case, but never ended up needing them. Overall the food is just lighter, more natural, and the portions are smaller. Plus everyone is walking and riding bikes everywhere, which doesn’t hurt.
Since I’ve been back I’ve had two meals: pizza last night for dinner, and Taco Time with Enzo today for lunch. In both cases the food has completely wrecked my stomach because in just that one week my body got used to eating lighter and more wholesome foods in smaller amounts. Considering that I’m trying to use this experience to better myself, adopting some of these food findings for me seems like a no-brainer because ultimately you just end up feeling better.
The Weather
There were many unexpected surprises on this trip, but I’d have to say nothing surprised me more than the weather. Once we were within about 10 days of the trip, I started looking at the weather forecast and was surprised to see that it was going to be hot (mid to upper 80’s) and humid (60-70% humidity) with chances of thunderstorms throughout the week. I’ve never really thought of Japan as being a terribly hot place, and even after seeing the forecast I was still caught off guard when initially stepping off the plane. I tend to think of places like Thailand or the Philippines as being hot and humid, but not Japan.
Instantly I was reminded of Florida because the humidity sticks to your skin and adds a glisten to your entire body. At home in Washington, and even in a hot dry climate like Las Vegas, I would never break a sweat unless I’m working out or playing hockey. Yet that was simply not the case in Japan. Sometimes the humidity was so thick in the air that it was a bit difficult to breathe, and at its worst, we were sitting in 90 degree heat with 70% humidity, which is debilitating. Never in my life would I have expected to be so ready to come home to Washington’s chilly climate, but that’s exactly how I felt yesterday as we walked out of SeaTac airport. I’m certainly not complaining about the weather, and it hardly stopped us from doing anything, but when it comes to surprises and being a bit caught off guard, this one tops the list.
Bathrooms & toilets
I’d heard before that toilets in Asia were a lot different than in the U.S., but I always equated that to a squatty potty, which is something I never saw in Japan. Instead of some primitive contraption like that, I was surprised to find the most high tech toilets I’ve ever seen. In the U.S., our toilets are quite simple – you do your business and flush. That’s it. Not so in Japan however. While the toilets there do have a normal flush lever like we’re used to, they also have a variety of electronic buttons, but the problem is, those buttons are usually only labeled in Japanese, and I quickly figured out that you should only press them if you know what they do. Let’s just say I was a little caught off guard in my first hotel room after pressing the wrong button and seeing this “magic wand” coming out looking like it wants to impregnate me. It turned out to be a bidet, and over the course of the week I became more comfortable with using it (which was a huge surprise), but the first few times I used a toilet in Japan I definitely walked away feeling confused. Some of the fancier toilets also have buttons to play music (for sound masking) and air dryers to use after the bidet. It’s pretty intense.
Closely related to this were the setup of their bathrooms. Basically the toilet isn’t in the bathroom, it’s in a small room of its own. The bathroom is then separated into two areas: the shower room, and the sink room. When you go into the shower room, there’s a bathtub with no shower curtain, tile flooring throughout, and a drain in the floor. The shower head isn’t built into the wall, but instead can be moved around, and clipped to the wall if you like.
What I didn’t initially understand was that in Japan, you’re not supposed to stand in the tub when taking a shower, which is why there was no shower curtain. Their custom is to stand outside of the tub, on the tiled floor, and shower there. This explains why the clips to hold the shower head were located away from the bathtub. The idea is this, you fill the bathtub with clean water, shower and clean yourself outside of the tub, then soak in the tub after your shower. When you’re done with your bath, you don’t drain the water, you save it for the next member of your family to use.
To the Japanese people, the western concept of cleaning yourself in the bath water is gross, which makes sense when you consider the fact that multiple people will be sharing that water. So that’s why you’re supposed to clean yourself off before getting in there. I didn’t understand any of this at first, and had the hardest time taking a shower in a tub with no shower curtain. I was trying to hold the shower head with one hand, while washing myself with the other, all the while trying to keep all the water within the tub. It was really difficult and I soon found myself crouched down in the tub trying to hold the shower head in the crook of my elbow so I’d have two free hands. I explained this to my buddies later and they all started laughing at me, but even after I understood how you were supposed to shower in these rooms, it was still a bit difficult and took some getting used to.
Efficiency of space
The country of Japan has fewer total square miles than the state of California, yet holds a population of 100 million people, and makes up the third largest economy in the world. That’s pretty impressive! In order to accommodate all these people, they have to be really efficient with space and building. Consequently most people tend to live in city apartments rather than suburban houses. The city buildings are located so close to each other that in many cases you’d be able to reach out your window and shake hands with a person in the next building. Basically, they don’t build out, they build up. These buildings aren’t able to have parking garages like we’re used to in the U.S., so instead they use car elevators to move cars up and down into these stacked storage containers. Like so many things in Japan, their engineering and efficiency can be described in one word: impressive.
Overall, everything in Japan is smaller than we’re used to in the United States. Fire trucks are half the size of ours, streets are narrower, and food portions are much less. At just over 6 feet tall, I was bigger than about 95% of the people I encountered, which took some getting used to.
Public transportation
Simply put, Japan has the best public transportation system I’ve ever seen. They’ve got an elaborate subway system, combined with above ground trains, busses, and tons of taxis. We ended up taking the trains almost everywhere and I couldn’t believe how fast and consistently on time they were. If you happened to miss your train it was no big deal because another one would be there in less than 5 minutes. More often than not these trains get very crowded, so you’ll often find yourself squished in there with lots of people, but you’re usually only on it for 10 or 15 minutes, so it’s no big deal. Although English isn’t very commonly spoke there, we found Google Maps to be a life saver. It would tell us exactly which trains to catch and where, so we never had a hard time getting around.
Driving on the left
This was the first time I’d visited a country where they drive on the left. Although I never drove a car while we were there, I quickly realized that driving on the left affects more than just drivers, it affects pedestrians too. For example, when crossing the street, cars are coming at you from the “wrong” direction, which can really throw you off. Also, since we tend to walk on the same side of the sidewalk as we drive on our roads, I often found myself walking against the flow of foot traffic. Walking to the left side of the sidewalk took some getting used to, but it’s important that you do so because it’s so crowded there. Also, tons of people ride bicycles in Japan, but unlike the U.S., they never ride on the street. They only ride their bikes on sidewalks, so I frequently found myself dodging cyclists coming at me from unexpected directions.
Clean streets with no garbage cans
Japan is the cleanest country I’ve ever seen. Only in the biggest cities (Tokyo and Osaka) did we see any type of litter or graffiti, and even then it was extremely minimal. The fact that it was so clean didn’t surprise me that much, but what did surprise me was the lack of garbage cans. I’m not exaggerating when I say you may walk a full mile without seeing a garbage can, so if you have something to throw away, you may be carrying it for a while. Since it’s so hot and muggy there, the streets are lined with vending machines filled with cold drinks, but once you finish that drink you’ll likely be carrying that empty bottle for a while.
In the U.S. people already litter so much, and I can’t even imagine how bad it would be if there were no garbage cans around, but it’s just not like that in Japan. I think it’s a respect thing, which I love. I think one of the reasons you don’t see many garbage cans in Japan is because they put in so much effort to make sure everything looks beautiful that they don’t want to ruin the asthethetic by lining the streets with trash cans. It all makes sense, but still requires the cooperation of their citizens, which they get in full.
Sidewalks
When we first got to Japan and started walking around, I noticed that everywhere you went, the sidewalk contained a yellow patch about one foot wide, with long straight grooves carved into it. These would literally go on forever, and I soon realized it was to aid blind people walking with a stick. Basically if you were walking along with a stick, you could keep the stick on these grooves to be assured you were walking in the right direction. When you came to a stopping or turning point, the grooves were replaced with little round dots, which the person could feel with their stick. You would literally see these everywhere, even in the subways, train stations, and hotels. The funny thing was I never saw a blind person walking with a stick until our very last day of the trip, and strangely enough, the guy wasn’t using the grooved pathways. He must have known his way around already, but overall the country’s commitment to this type of accessibility was so impressive to me that I ended up taking several photos of these walkways. My buddy Tiko kept making fun of me taking pictures of the sidewalk but I didn’t care, I thought it was awesome.
Safety
Japan is one of the safest countries in the world, and you feel it when you’re there. No one is belligerent at all, guns are totally outlawed, as are bullets, and even firing a gun. Even police officers don’t carry guns. Consequently they have fewer than 20 gun-related deaths per year. Not bad for a country of 100 million people. If you commit a crime in Japan, prosecution rates are 99%, and I’m not exaggerating. There are basically zero drugs there, and no homeless people. Simply put, you never have to worry about your safety, regardless of where you are or what time it is.
Rugby World Cup and Climate Summit
We didn’t know this when booking the trip, but Japan is currently hosting the Rugby World Cup, so we saw tons of Rugby fans, plus a handful of players, while we were there. I’ve seen plenty of professional athletes in person over the years, especially when I worked at El Gaucho, but regardless of that, seeing these Rugby players up close was something else. In general, I’m not physically intimidated by anyone, but there were a couple Rugby players I saw who looked more like refrigerators than human beings. Being in close proximity to them was a humbling experience.
For the most part the Rugby fans were fine, but there were a few cases where they were really drunk, loud, and confrontational. I didn’t know Rugby was such a popular sport in Japan, so it added a unique vibe being there during the tournament. This reminded my of my school trip to New York in 1994, when the U.S. was hosting the FIFA World Cup. I’ll never forget riding an elevator with players from the Irish soccer team, and this was a similar experience.
In addition to the Rugby World Cup, Tokyo was hosting a Climate Summit while we were there, and Al Gore was speaking. I’m sure no matter when you go to Tokyo, plenty of exciting things are going on, but this was totally unexpected. Climate science is something that I deeply appreciate and believe in, so it was cool to have that going on while we were there.
Italian restaurants
Other than Japanese food, by far the most common type of restaurant you’ll find in Japan is Italian. This was surprising to me at first, but it just goes to show you the influence Italian food has had throughout the world. Although most of our meals were traditional Japanese food, we definitely hit up a handful of Italian restaurants as well. The main reason was this – according to our fitness trackers, we averaged 9.1 miles of walking per day, and in my case, this resulted in about 3,000 calories burned per day. Since the food in Japan tends to be lighter and dairy-free with smaller portions, what you end up with is a calorie deficit. Since I didn’t really have much weight to lose in the first place, I often found myself craving a big bowl of pasta and bread just in order to give me the necessary fuel to keep walking.
American restaurants and stores
Although English isn’t that widely spoken in Japan, we all agreed that it wasn’t quite as much culture shock as we were expecting, particularly in the cities. Part of this is due to how modern their cities are, but another part was the fact that so many of the businesses we’re familiar with in the U.S. also have a footprint in Japan. Walking down the street in any major Japanese city you’re likely to see places like 7-11, McDonalds, KFC, Wendy’s, Starbucks, Kinkos, and more. While I don’t tend to visit these places (either here or there), they still add to your general sense of familiarity. Overall, you can tell that the Japanese people are fans of American culture, and these are just a few examples of how that gets materialized.
At this point I’ve already written more than I normally would for a blog post, but I’m just getting started. Now that I’ve explained what surprised me, it’s time to get into the day-to-day details of our trip, as well as share my favorite photos. Might be time to refill that cup of coffee.
Saturday, September 28
Our trip begins! I couldn’t sleep that night due to excitement over the trip, so I was up at 5:30am. I felt like I needed to burn off some energy, so I was at the gym the minute they opened at 7:00 for a quick workout. After that I cleaned up at home, took a few photos with the kids, then rounded everyone up in the van and headed south to SeaTac airport. As you can imagine, saying goodbye to Jessica and the kids was really hard. I’ve never been this far away, or been gone this long, so it was tough. I knew they would be fine, but it was still emotional.
After they dropped me off I was able to take a deep breath, clear my mind, and get ready for all the fun that was about to ensue. I lucked out on the flights because we had a direct flight from Seattle to Japan, and vice versa, but everyone else in our group had a layover. Devin, Tiko, and Brad all flew up together from Vegas and met me at the gate in SeaTac. Brian (Devin’s younger brother) has been living in Berlin for about 6 years now, so the plan was to meet up with him once we got to Osaka. This was my first time meeting Brad, who turned out to be a great guy that fit in perfectly well with the group. As far as the other 3 go, I think of them almost like the brothers I never had. For me it kinda goes beyond friendship because we’ve shared so many amazing experiences together, and this just added to it.
The flight to Osaka was long (about 11 hours), so my plan was to sleep most of the way there, but that ended up being impossible. I was too excited about the trip and ended up staying awake reading and watching movies the whole time. Flying in over Japan I was immediately struck by its beauty. The mountains are so lush with green trees, and unlike Washington, where the mountains are at least partially snow capped year around, these mountains were completely green with trees, even at their summit.
Sunday, September 29
As we stepped off the plane, the heat and humidity hit me right in the face. Instantly I could tell that bringing a jacket was unnecessary. At this point, due to the 16 hour time difference, it was already 4:00pm on Sunday, so our body clocks were totally messed up. Devin’s only request of us was that we not check any bags for the trip so that we could easily make our way through all the various airports and train stations. We all had big carry on bags, so I intentionally packed pretty light in order to leave room for all the presents I was hoping to buy.
After making our way through customs, we all hopped in a cab and began the 90 minute drive from the Osaka airport, which sits out on an island, to our hotel, which was in a more residential part of the city. On the way there, one of the first things I noticed was how everyone hung their clothes out to dry on their apartment balconies. Since space is such a premium in Japan, most homes don’t have room for a dryer, so hanging your clothes out to dry is the norm.
Another interesting thing we saw on the way to the hotel was a march on the streets of Osaka with people carrying signs saying “Remember Fukushima”, which was obviously related to the nuclear plant meltdown from several years ago. It was a peaceful march, with plenty of police around just in case, and was really cool to see.
After checking into our hotel, the plan was to get out on a walk and start exploring. Since we were staying in a residential neighborhood of the city, we got to see a much less touristy part of the city, which felt very cool and authentic. We would walk down these little alleyways and see all kinds of restaurants, arcades, and pachinko parlors. In some cases we would walk in and it felt like every head in the place turned towards us. I could practically hear the record needle getting scratched off the vinyl.
After a bit of walking around, we headed to Osaka station to meet Brian and get him checked in at the hotel. Since it was the first night of the trip, Devin wanted to make sure everyone had their own room to sleep in. I ended up sharing a room with Tiko for the remainder of the trip, which was a ton of fun, but it was nice to have my own room on this first night.
After getting Brian checked into the hotel, we all took the train to a more touristy part of Osaka called Dotonbori. It was funny because I couldn’t understand what Devin was saying and thought he said “Downtown Brewery”, which became one of the many funny taglines of our trip. When we arrived, I was immediately taken aback by all the lights and people. It was a Sunday night, yet the train station and subway cars were totally packed with people. The streets of Dotonbori were also completely packed, and the closest thing I could compare it to was Las Vegas.
We walked around for a while, taking pictures and absorbing our newly found culture shock, then eventually found ourselves at a little Japanese restaurant eating a “pancake” made of cabbage, beef trimmings, and soy sauce. It was surprisingly good, and the first of many delicious Japanese meals we would enjoy over the week.
By the time I went to bed that night I’d been up for 26 hours, which is something I haven’t done in probably at least 15 years. I wouldn’t have thought I was even capable of doing that, but the excitement of the trip kept me going. I put on my complementary Japanese pajamas and crashed hard, knowing we were in for a busy travel day to Kyoto coming up.
Monday, September 30
After getting as much sleep as possible, Devin, Brad and I got up Monday morning and took a walk around the neighborhood. A bit later we met up with Tiko and Brian, checked out of the hotel, then went down the street for some breakfast. I was immediately taken aback by the fact that people were smoking in the restaurant. We’re no longer used to this in the states, so it was a bit jarring.
After breakfast we made our way back to Osaka Station and took a 40 minute train to Kyoto. Kyoto was the original capital city of Japan (it is now Tokyo), and instantly I could tell there was a lot more to it than I was expecting. I think everyone was pleasantly surprised by Kyoto, as we were mainly expecting to see the old historic parts of Japan there (which we did), but it was also a major metropolitan city with everything you could imagine.
After checking into our hotel, we all went for a walk in Old Kyoto, which is the historic part of town. We quickly learned that pedestrian walkways are not just for pedestrians. Cars and trucks are also likely to come down these streets, so you have to watch out at all times. We saw a number of young men and women wearing traditional Japanese kimonos as they strolled through the streets. As I learned, most of these people were wearing rented kimonos, rather than their own. Basically you can rent a kimono for the day and wear it wherever you want. It was extremely hot that day, so I’m guessing having all those robes on was a bit uncomfortable, but it was really cool to see.
Without planning on it, we ended up stumbling upon our first temple, which turned out to be one of the oldest temples in all of Japan. The first thing I noticed about Japanese temples is how immaculate and well manicured they are. These are the most peaceful and serene places in the world. The landscaping is incredible, and it’s not uncommon to see a man on a ladder carefully trimming trees to make them look just right. You’re not allowed to walk on most of the grounds because they stripe the gravel perfectly and don’t want it messed up. You also can’t wear your shoes in the temple because the wood is hundreds of years old and they don’t want anything getting damaged.
The heat and humidity was so intense this day that we all took the opportunity to sit down at the temple, relax, and just enjoy the beautiful surroundings. After leaving the temple we continued walking around old Kyoto, did some shopping, and found a nice traditional little Japanese restaurant for lunch.
Later that evening we had one of my favorite experiences of the entire trip – the Samurai museum. Basically we all went to a Samurai museum, which was located in an outdoor shopping center in Kyoto, and took a tour. Our guide taught us about the history of Samurai, Ninja, and the ancient Japanese Feudal system. We saw various authentic sets of Samurai armor, and learned about the principles of the Samurai: Loyalty and Honor above all else, followed by Mercy, Justice, Courage, Respect, and Honesty. It was also during this tour that our guide said something I’ll never forget regarding Japanese culture: “If you’re going to do something, you should strive for perfection. Otherwise it’s not worth doing.”
After the tour was over, we all got to put on Samurai armor and learn how to use a few traditional Japanese weapons. First we learned how to carry a Samurai sword, then we got some practice using two Ninja weapons: throwing stars and blow dart guns. They had a wall with lots of targets painted on it, so we all took turns throwing the stars and shooting the blow guns. I did okay with the throwing stars, but excelled with the blow gun, and ended up finishing with 3 consecutive bullseyes!
Afterwards we walked around a bit more, did some shopping, then ended up at a nice little restaurant, which we initially thought was Japanese, but turned out to actually be a Chinese restaurant. As usual, the food was great, and so was the conversation. That night I bought a pair of matching bracelets for Ava and Elise – when you put them together the engraving on them forms an ampersand. I really wanted to get something special for each of the kids that they could keep forever, and these bracelets were perfect.
Tuesday, October 1
Our second day in Kyoto was all about sightseeing. We took the train to a new part of town and went to a new temple. I can’t remember the name of this one, but once again I was floored by the pure beauty and serenity of the place. After taking our time to walk through every room of the temple and look at all the art, we made our way to the outside area, where there was a koi pond and various statues. It was quite busy with people, so we just took our time and strolled around.
Right next to this outdoor area was the Bamboo Forest, which was incredible. The bamboo trees are so tall and skinny, you’ve never seen anything like it! We ended up walking all the way up to the top of the hill, then enjoyed some incredible mountain and river views. We kinda got lost heading back, so it took awhile to make our way back down, but we eventually got on a bus and headed out to the Golden Temple.
In terms of architecture, the Golden Temple was probably my favorite thing I saw on the trip. Not only was the temple gorgeous as it gleamed in the sunlight, but the surrounding areas were also breathtaking. Some of my favorite photos from the trip were taken here, and the fan I got for Enzo has a picture of the Golden Temple on it, so it’s a nice reminder of this very special place. I also got Jessica a keychain with the Golden Temple on it.
After leaving the Golden Temple, we took another bus across town to Nijo-Jo Castle, and arrived just before closing. We were actually the last group they allowed in that day, and I made friends with one of the guards outside. It turned out that the castle was under construction and covered with scaffolding, which was a bummer, but this was also the home of the Shogun temple, which was amazing. The Shogun is the head of all Samurai, and he lived here in the temple. In order to protect him, the temple features squeaky floors. Basically guards would sit in various places throughout the temple and remain silent. If there was an intruder (like a Ninja), the floors would squeak when they walked, and the guards would hear it. Immediately upon entering we heard the squeaky floors, then took it as a challenge to see if we could walk without making a sound. I eventually got the hang of it, but realized I had to walk so slowly that it would take a half hour just to go down the hallway. Not very practical if you’re an intruder.
That night we ended up going to two different restaurants for dinner. Basically I really wanted sushi, but the rest of the guys wanted to check out a meat restaurant, so I just came along with them and researched sushi places while they ate. After they finished, they followed me to this awesome little sushi place hidden in an alley. This ended up being my favorite meal of the trip. It was a tiny little place with about 6 seats at the counter, and one private room. We sat in the private room and I ordered Omakase, which is a chef’s sampler of sushi. Rather than pick my own pieces, I let our server, who was also the chef, pick everything. You know it’s good when the things that you typically don’t like (eel, sea urchin, salmon eggs in my case) turn out to be amazing. Unlike American sushi, which tends to have too much rice and lots of filler, this sushi left nothing to hide behind, and it was amazing. I ended up leaving a 5 star review and wrote 3 full paragraphs about my experience there. The rest of the guys tried a few things as well and everyone loved it!
Wednesday, October 2
This was another travel day for us, but we wanted to see a little more of Kyoto before heading out of town. We walked to breakfast that morning, and were heading down a covered pedestrian walkway when all of the sudden I hear a horn from behind me. I look back and there’s a big truck coming at me literally going about 40mph! I almost had to dive out of the way or I would have been killed. It was insane. Overall, people drive wherever they want there, and it certainly feels like pedestrians don’t have the right of way.
After that scare, and our meal, we checked out of the hotel, and I got to visit my first guitar store of the trip. I only had a little bit of time, but ended up playing a few guitars just to get an idea of what I was looking for. Soon we were back on foot, heading to the tallest and most iconic Pagoda in all of Japan. You’ll recognize it when you see the photo below.
In the same grounds as the Pagoda was a beautiful Buddhist temple. I feel kinda bad because I took what ended up being one of my favorite photos of the whole trip, then ended up seeing the “No Photos” sign directly after. I certainly didn’t mean any disrespect, and am thankful for the photo I got, but felt bad about it. I ended up buying 3 little pouches for the kids while we were there. Each pouch contains paper with Kanji characters, each with different meanings. The girl’s pouches were meant for health and prosperity, while Enzo’s pouch was meant for success as a student.
After this we made our way back to the train station, and ended up having our biggest mishap of the trip. Basically the plan was to take the bullet train from Kyoto to Hakone, which is a little mountain town outside of Tokyo. We were staying at an Art and Music Spa and Resort in Hakone, and the thought was that we would get a nice relaxing night there before heading into the madness of Tokyo.
We ended up having some trouble purchasing the right train tickets and soon found ourselves in a big hurry running through the station. We got there on time, hopped on the train, and headed to our seats. As we got there, I noticed a man sitting in my seat, so I politely asked him if he was in the wrong spot and showed him my ticket. Luckily he spoke a little English, and proceeded to tell me we were on the wrong train. I relayed this information to Devin, and we all scrambled to get off the train. However, it was too late. The doors had already closed and locked, so we were all stuck on this train with no idea where it was going. This is when the panic started to set in.
We started running from car to car looking for an attendant, but it took forever to find one. Eventually we found someone and got the good news that the train we had gotten on was going to make a stop at the same station that the other train (the one we belonged on) would also be stopping at. We had no seats on this first train, so we had to just stand there (going 200mph) and wait to get to that station. Once we arrived there, we just waited for about 15 minutes until the correct train arrived. At that point we were able to get on and sit in the original seats we had purchased. In the end it worked out fine, but it was pretty crazy in the moment.
After the whole train debacle, we took a bus up the mountain to Hakone and got checked into our hotel. One of the main features of the hotel was the Onsen, which is a natural hot springs bath. The water is geothermally heated and is said to have healing properties. Onsen baths are a big part of Japanese culture, so I did some reading about it, and based on what I read, I decided not to get in.
Basically there are a lot of rules in regards to Onsen. If you have tattoos, you’re not allowed in a public Onsen because tattoos are generally associated with the Yakuza (Japanese mob). I was the only one in our group with tattoos, and I didn’t want to disrespect their culture. Another rule regarding public Onsen is that you must go naked. I’m not really a big fan of walking around naked in public, so this was a factor. Finally, they don’t like people with long hair getting into the Onsen because it dirties the water.
As it turned out, in addition to the public Onsen, they also had private Onsen, and if I wanted to I could have gone into my own private Onsen, which is what the rest of the guys ended up doing, but I decided to pass. I did walk into one of the private Onsen rooms just to feel the water, and it felt like most hot tubs I’ve been in, but didn’t seem like something I’d be missing out on. I really didn’t want to disrespect their culture, so I took a pass. The rest of the guys loved it, which I was glad to hear, but I’m not upset that I missed out.
Later that evening we all dressed up in traditional Japanese robes provided by the hotel, and sat down for one of the most interesting meals of my life. It was a 7 course traditional Japanese dinner, and all I can say is that my palette has never experienced so many new flavors and textures. I’ll be honest, there were some things in that meal that I couldn’t really eat, but I did my best to try at least a little bit of everything. Once again though, we all had a great conversation, and it ended up being a very memorable meal, as well as a super relaxing evening.
Thursday, October 3
The next morning we all met up for another very traditional Japanese meal, which again was colorful and full of new flavors. It ended up being such a fun and different experience hanging out in Hakone, which was the perfect precursor to our weekend in Tokyo! After breakfast we took the bus back down the mountain, got back on the bullet train, and made our way to one of the coolest cities I’ve ever seen.
Based on population, Tokyo is the sixth largest city in the world. For comparison’s sake, New York City is the 28th largest city in the world. The best way I can describe Tokyo is to take New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, and Las Vegas, mix them all up in a blender, then double the whole thing. I’ve never seen so many buildings or people in my life! It just goes on and on as far as the eye can see.
We made our way to the hotel, dropped off our bags, and sought out some food. After a couple of very artistic meals, we were ready for something a bit more hearty, so we ended up at this awesome place called Fuji Ramen. The two guys working there were awesome, and the food was amazing. We ended up having Ramen two more times on the trip, but this was easily my favorite.
After lunch we walked over to an outdoor mall to do some shopping. I ended up finding a few things for Jessica, as well as this beautiful miniature Samurai helmet for Enzo. It’s handmade and so cool. I wanted something special that he could keep forever from Japan, and this ended up being the perfect gift.
Later that evening we hopped back on the train and visited the Akihabara district (pronounced Aki-Barra) which is the famous electronics district of Tokyo. The entire neighborhood is filled with electronics vendors, video game arcades, vintage video game stores, and girls on the street trying to hand you flyers for various shows. There’s about as many bright lights as you’d see on the Las Vegas strip, but there’s so much more to it than that. It can be sensory overload for sure, but if you’re in Tokyo it’s one of those must-see places.
After bouncing around for a couple hours we were all getting hungry and ended up at a steakhouse. This was a bit more of a ‘traditional’ meal from our perspective, but man was it good. I don’t red meat very often but the filet mignon I had that night was excellent. Once again the conversation and camaraderie amongst the group was every bit as good as the food, and we all left happy and feeling good.
Friday, October 4
Without a doubt, this was my favorite day of the trip, and also the craziest. It started off with a trip to “Guitar Street”, which is what I’ve been looking forward to since the trip was originally planned. I’d been planning for years to buy a guitar for my 40th birthday, but that plan changed once I knew I was going to Japan.
For those who aren’t familiar, there’s an entire street in Tokyo known as “Guitar Street” and it contains more guitar shops than I’ve ever seen in my life. We stopped by all of them to look around, and I found plenty of cool guitars, but there was no way I was making a purchase until I went to the ESP store.
ESP Guitars are a Japanese brand of extremely well made guitars and basses. My first ESP was actually an LTD (their more affordable brand of guitars made in Korea), and I absolutely loved that guitar, but ended up giving it to my nephew Kallan for his 21st birthday. A year or so later I ended up purchasing a used green ESP Horizon, which I also love and will never get rid of. Based on how much I loved both of these guitars, I knew I had to go to the ESP store in Tokyo. This shop is famous in the guitar world, so I figured there was a very good chance that this is where I’d make my purchase.
After looking at all the other stores, Brad, Tiko and Brian split up to head back to Akihabara, while Devin and I headed back to the ESP store. We went upstairs where they keep all the good stuff, and I started chatting with the coolest sales guy named Hoshi. I basically told him that I was definitely there to buy something, but I didn’t know what. I wanted to try out about a dozen different guitars, so he was kind enough to pull all of them down and get them in tune for me.
Hoshi would hand me a guitar to play, then start working on tuning the next one while I jammed out. Devin was there to take photos and videos of me playing each one, and when I was done I would hand it off to Devin and get started on the next one. After playing all 12 guitars, I felt like I knew which one I wanted, but just to be safe I narrowed it down to 3, and played all 3 again. By the time this was done there was no question in my mind, I was going with the M-II 7 string.
As you may or may not know, a normal guitar has 6 strings, and all of the guitars I owned up until this point were 6 string guitars. About 15 years ago I bought a cheap 7 string on Ebay, but I ended up trading it in for something else a year or two later, and literally haven’t played one since. I knew I was interested in the 7 string before this trip, mainly because it was very different from everything else I already had, but when I first played it at the music store in Kyoto, it didn’t quite feel right. I struggled with it and left that store not sure if a 7 string was right for me.
Once I played this particular guitar again in Tokyo, however, there was no question it was the one. What had felt unnatural and clunky to me just two days before suddenly felt amazing this time around, and again, it’s very different from everything else in my collection. I can’t wait to start recording new stuff with this guitar!
As usual, the guys working at ESP were all so cool. When I told them I was from Seattle, the first thing Hoshi said was “Seattle Mariners – Ichiro!!!” which was awesome. They ended up giving me some gifts to bring home with the guitar, which was so nice of them. The reality is I could have simply purchased the guitar online, but then I wouldn’t have the amazing story of purchasing it at the ESP store in Tokyo, nor would I have the human connection I made with Hoshi and the other guys at the store. This was easily the best guitar buying experience I’ve ever had, and I’m so thankful to have had Devin there with me the entire time!
After purchasing the guitar, Devin and I got back on the subway and took it to our hotel, then headed back to Akihabara to meet up with the rest of the guys. We hung out for a bit, checked out the Gundam Cafe, then headed to a new area of Tokyo called Shinjuku. Devin had purchased tickets to Robot Theater, and honestly this turned out to be the best show I’ve ever seen in my life! From the second we got off the elevator and walked into the pre-show it was sensory overload.
After the pre-show we all headed down several flights of stairs and found our seats in the theaters. I noticed right as the show was starting that the area straight across from us had 10 empty seats in the corner, which didn’t make sense because they said the show was sold out. Pretty soon the show got going and we were all totally into it. During the first intermission I noticed that those seats that used to be empty were now filled, but I didn’t pay any more attention to it until Devin said to me “Is that Angelina Jolie over there?”. I’m like “Yeah right dude” but I looked closer and started to change my tune. I then started looking at the kids around her and instantly recognized them. To be sure, I then pulled out my phone and googled a picture of her and her kids. At that point there was no question it was them, but to be even more sure, I searched to see if she was known to be in Tokyo at this time, and sure enough, she was there promoting her new movie Maleficent, as well as visiting her son Maddox, who is now a freshman in college at a school in South Korea.
Since I was already filming the show, I ended up zooming in on them a few times, which I felt like she noticed because she made eye contact with me for half a second. I ended up feeling bad about it because I didn’t want to disrupt her and her family, but it was such a surprise I couldn’t help it. It was so loud and colorful in there that I couldn’t tell if the video I was taking was turning out, so I probably zoomed in one or two times too many, but again I didn’t mean any harm, it was just a big surprise. Devin ended up getting a really clear photo of them, which you can see below. After the show ended they were escorted out before anyone else could leave, which all felt very Hollywood, although I don’t think many people in the crowd even knew she was there. We just happened to be in the perfect spot to see her.
After Robot Theater we ended up going out for Ramen at this place called Ichiran. It’s a famous chain of Ramen restaurants in Japan, and it was unlike anything else I’ve ever seen. Basically you wait in line outside, then come in and place your order on a machine and get a ticket. Then you fill out a sheet specifying how firm the noodles should be, how much garlic, how spicy, etc. Eventually you’re taken to a single seat that feels like a mini cubicle. Inside that cubicle is your own water spout, and a little door at the end of your table that pulls up to open. A cook comes over and opens the door, takes your form and ticket, and leaves. A few minutes later they return with your order, place the food in front of you, and close the door. It’s a very futuristic Blade Runner type of experience, but they do it that way because they don’t need to hire any servers. It wasn’t as good as Fuji Ramen, and it was missing the human connection, but it still hit the spot.
After dinner we wandered around Shinjuku some more and ended up finding a rock/metal bar called Rockaholic. We went in and immediately loved the place. They took requests for songs, and the people hanging out loved us because we were a bunch of American metal fans. We listened to songs and sang with them for a bit, before deciding to call it a night.
On our way back to the hotel, Tiko, Devin and Brad were tired and ready for bed, but Brian and I decided to seize the moment. We figured we may never be in Tokyo together again, and we only see each other every couple years at best (since he lives in Berlin) so we decided to catch a taxi to a famous part of town called Shibuya (known as the Times Square of Tokyo), which is where all the nightclubs are. It was a long cab ride over there, but it was the first time we’d gotten to see Tokyo from the perspective of a car (normally we were always on the subway).
We got to Shibuya and it felt like we were in a different world. All the young people were out, and most of them were drunk. They may not do drugs in Japan, but man do they drink. It was about 1:30am, so we went to a 7-11 and slammed a Redbull, then started walking through Shibuya on our way to a hip-hop nightclub called Harlem. On our way there we saw multiple people passed out drunk literally in the middle of the street. I would have moved them if they were alone, but in each case the person was being attended to by a friend, so I minded my own business and kept walking.
After a short wait in line we got into Harlem and immediately fell in love with the place. It had a great energy to it and they were playing all kinds of classic American hip-hop. We basically just kept to ourselves, dancing to the music and talking about how crazy this place was. We totally lost track of time and next thing I know Brian says “Dude, the club is about to close in 8 minutes!”. I then pull out my phone and my jaw dropped when I saw it was 3:52am. I haven’t been out like that in many many years, so we hung out for one last song and hit the road.
As we walked back through Shibuya it was more of the same – lots of drunk people passed out in the streets, and lots of late night restaurants trying to take their money. It was so late that the subway, which had closed at midnight, was now open again. So instead of taking another expensive cab home, we went to the subway and waited 15 minutes for our train. It’s a long train back to our neighborhood, and I totally fell asleep. Luckily Brian was still awake from that Redbull and managed to wake me up at our stop. By the time we got back to our hotel it was 5:30am, the sun was rising, and I got an awesome photo of the Tokyo SkyTree in the distance. It’s been at least 10 years since I’ve pulled an all-nighter like that, but again, who knows if I’ll ever be back, and I never get to see Brian, so I was happy we did it.
Saturday, October 5
I was hoping to sleep in that day, but our room got so bright in the mornings that I was wide awake at 9:30am. Although I knew it was going to be rough going on only 4 hours of sleep, I decided to power through. We didn’t really have plans for Saturday, which was our last full day of the trip, so Devin asked if we wanted to go up to the Tokyo SkyTree. We all said yes and hopped on the subway. It may look like the Space Needle, but the Space needle is 600 feet tall, and the SkyTree is 1,500 feet tall at the top observation deck! We ended up going to both observation decks, and I’ll admit getting near the window started giving me serious vertigo. I don’t do very well with heights, but I did my best to hang in there and enjoy the views. It was hard to believe, but even from that height we would look out at Tokyo and you literally couldn’t see the end of it in any direction other than the water. It was insane. Definitely the biggest city I’ve ever seen.
If you go to Shibuya, one of the main things you need to see is the main crosswalk. Every 3 minutes the light changes, and literally about 2,000 people cross the street at once, in all directions. Then the same thing happens with just as many people another 3 minutes later. It reminded me of watching the tide come in and out, but instead of water, this tide was made of humans. Check out my video below to get a better idea.After coming down from the SkyTree we hung out and had a bite to eat. It was getting later in the afternoon and the guys were hoping to head back to Akihabara, but I just couldn’t do it. The lack of sleep had caught up with me, so for the first time on the trip, I separated from the group and decided to head back to the hotel for a nap.
I mapped it out and saw it would either be a 30 minute train ride, or a 40 minute walk. I decided on the walk, threw my headphones on, and hit the streets. On my way back I went through various neighborhoods that we hadn’t seen yet, and got a lot of good photos. I even saw these real life Mario Kart tours where people dress up as game characters and drive go karts through the streets of Tokyo. When I saw them I went running as fast as possible to catch up to them and get their photo, knowing the kids would love it.
By the time I got back to the hotel I was exhausted and proceeded to take a 2 hour nap. After that we all got together for our last night in Japan, which we decided to spend in Shibuya (that Time Square type of area Brian and I had visited the night before). Since it was Saturday night, and Japan was playing a rugby match, the whole place was poppin’. There was a huge line of Harley Davidsons parked on the street and all kinds of bikers hanging out. Then there were all these classic American cars, like lowrider Impala’s that were being shown off. Plus there were some sick Ferrari’s and Porsche’s making a bunch of noise. The whole scene was surreal, and not what most people would expect for Japan.
If you go to Shibuya, one of the main things you need to see is the main crosswalk. Every 3 minutes the light changes, and literally about 2,000 people cross the street at once, in all directions. Then the same thing happens with just as many people another 3 minutes later. It reminded me of watching the tide come in and out, but instead of water, this tide was made of humans. Check out my video below to get a better idea.
After walking around a bit we decided to find a place for dinner, and ended up having a great meal at a place called Bambina. We had some roasted garlic edamame, which was the best any of us had ever had, followed by an unbelievable deconstructed cheeseburger made with steak, hamburger, two types of ham, tomato, onions, and a delicious cheese sauce. It was like no burger any of us had ever had, but we all loved it.
After dinner we decided to check out Tower Records in Shibuya. None of us had been to a music store in years, so it was fun to walk around and check out various Japanese metal bands. After leaving Tower Records we went back to the big crosswalk one more time just to check it out, then hopped back on the train to head home. We ended up being surrounded by a bunch of drunk rugby fans who were pretty annoying, but also hilarious at the same time.
Overall it was a nice chill night, and a good way to finish things off.
Sunday, October 6
This was our travel day, and it was going to be a long one for all of us. Brian had to leave first, so we all got up early to see him off. Afterwards the rest of us went out for breakfast, then went to a cutlery shop so Devin could get a nice kitchen knife. It was raining hard that day, but luckily our hotel provided everyone with umbrellas. We decided it would be appropriate for our final meal in Japan to be Ramen, so we went out for lunch one last time, then hopped in a cab and headed to Narita airport in Tokyo.
Our bags were all so full none of us were sure we could even get them zipped up, but we all managed. My other main concern was getting my guitar on the plane. I really didn’t want to gate check it, and luckily it all worked out. Due to jetstreams, the flight back was about 90 minutes faster than the flight to Japan was, so that was nice. Unlike the first flight, I had no problem taking a nap on this flight. The weird thing was that we took off Sunday afternoon at 4:30pm in Tokyo, and landed that same Sunday morning at 8:45am in Seattle!
Obviously I was dying to see Jessica and the kids, and as soon as I did I dropped all my stuff, fell to my knees, and hugged my kids as hard as I could. I was exhausted and jetlagged, but it didn’t matter. Being home was what mattered, and I’m glad to now be here.
As I close out this epic long post, again I just want to give my ultimate thanks to Devin for including me on this unbelievable journey. It was a life changing experience that I will never forget, and I simply can’t thank him enough.
Tomorrow things get back to normal for me, but as usual, there’s still plenty of good stuff to look forward to in the near future. Most notably, I get the pleasure of standing up as a groomsman in Kristy and Beto’s wedding this Saturday. Beyond that, my Mom is coming up to visit for her birthday on Halloween, then we’ve got visits from Amy and Tom, then Rick and Chris for Thanksgiving to look forward to.
Thanks for sticking with me on this post. I hope it gave you some good insight into this epic trip. I know I’ll never forget it.